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Choose
your Player Improvement Goal: see what custom fit clubs could do
for you.
I
Want to:
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*Player
Improvement Goals
*According
to "Golfsmith's Guide to Practical Clubfitting" |
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I
want to hit the ball higher
Loft
At
least 2 degrees greater in the woods and irons or 1
to 1.5 degrees greater in the wedges.
Clubhead
design:
Center
of Gravity
At least 3-4 mm lower and 4-5 mm farther back from face
in the woods and at least 2-3 mm lower and 2-3 mm
farther back from the face in the irons.
Weight
distribution:
Greater
sole width, longer sole, tall toe height in middle
and short irons (pulls CG back, but won't in long irons).
Shaft
flex:
More
flexible, RSSR at least 10mph lower than swing
speed of the player.
Shaft
bend point:
Lower
Hosel
offset:
At
least 4-5mm greater in the irons and 20mm greater in
the woods.
Vertical
roll:
At
least 4-6 inches less (straighter face)
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2.
I want to hit the ball lower
Loft
At
least 2 degrees less for all swing speed players in
the woods, irons and at least 1 - 1.5 degree less in the
wedges.
Clubhead
design
Center
of Gravity
At least 3-4mm higher and 4-5mm closer to the face in
the woods and at least 2-3mm higher and 2-3mm closer
to the face in the irons.
Weight
Distribution
Narrow
sole, shorter sole length, normal to mid-size toe
height in middle and short irons, taller in the long irons
(keeps CG from falling back from the face).
Shaft
flex
More
stiff, RSSR equal to or up to 10mph higher than
swing speed of the player (Distance could be at risk
though).
Shaft
bend point
Higher.
Hosel
offset
At
least 4-5mm less in the irons and at least 20mm less
in the woods.
Vertical
roll
Less
on the top of the face (straighter) and (more
rounded) on the bottom of the face.
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3.
I want to hit the ball farther
Loft
At
least 2 degrees less in the driver and longer irons for
faster swing speed players; At least 2 degrees more in
the driver and long irons for slower swing speed
players; At least 2 degrees less in the fairway woods,
middle and short irons for all swing speed players.
Clubhead
design
Center
of Gravity
At least 3-4 mm higher and 4-5 mm closer to the face for
faster swing speed players (over 80mph driver swing
speed) in the woods ; No more than 2-3 mm lower and
3-4 mm farther back from the face for slow swing speed
players (under 80mph driver swing speed) in the woods
Weight
Distribution
Greater
perimeter weighting for all swing speed players
to get more out of an off-center hit.
Shaft
weight
Lighter
by at least 30-40g from the player's previous
shaft weight.
Shaft
flex
More
flexible; RSSR to be 10mph more than player's
actual swing speed.
Total
weight
Lighter
by at least 1.5 oz from the same club number in
the previous set.
SwingWeight
At
least 3-5 points higher from increasing actual head
mass without drastically increasing total weight at the
same time from a shaft weight increase; To increase
distance, the swingweight increase must come from
head weight increase more than from simply increasing
length.
Length
Longer
by as little as 1/2 inches (greater than the
previous set) in all the clubs for players who hit the ball
on center a high percentage of the time; Shorter by 1
inches in the driver for players who do not hit the ball
on center very often; Longer by 1/2 inches in the
middle and short irons for all players.
Golf
club balance point
Make
the club(s) with a lower balance point at the same
time the total weight is lowered. This means building
the set with swingweight that is higher than normal for
the length being advised.
Grip
size
Large
enough to be comfortable for the player,
regardless of the distance from the fingertips to the
heel of the hand.
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4.
I want to hit the ball straighter
Lie
in the short and middle irons
Dynamically
fit to the player to ensure center of sole
contact with the ground.
Length
At
least 1inches shorter for all players, but longer only
for those very tall, short armed players who have been
very crouched and uncomfortable with the previous
length.
Face
angle
At
least 2 degrees more open or more closed from the
previous woods to be noticed; direction of face angle
change to opposite direction of flight, e.g. more closed
for slice; more open for hook. Another reference is 1
degree change from the previous face angle for every
5-7 yards of desired accuracy change.
SwingWeight
At
least 2-3 swingweight points higher, more if the
previous set was greatly underweight for the player.
Shaft
weight/total weight
Lighter,
but there is no hard, fast rule of the amount
required to make a change in accuracy because the
swingweight must be properly matched to the total
weight for the strength, playing ability and athletic
coordination of the player. Normally, if the previous
shaft was so heavy it was causing accuracy problems,
the shaft weight would have to be reduced by at least
30-40g to show improvement. On the other hand, if the
previous shaft was so light it was causing accuracy
problems, the swingweight would be increased by at
least 3-5 points before increasing the shaft weight to
correct the problem so the total weight would not
increase so much and cause a distance decrease.
Horizontal
bulge
Greater
radius if previous face too flat; less radius if
previous face too much bulge. Amount of bulge to be
within normal ranges for all woods.
Grip
size
Large
enough to be comfortable for the player
regardless of the distance from fingertips to the heel of
the hand.
Clubhead
design
Weight
distribution
More perimeter weighting regardless if the player hits
the ball off center a high percentage of the time. Less
perimeter weighting if the player wants to intentionally
hook or slice the ball more.
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5.
I want to stop slicing the ball
Face
angle
1
degree more hooked than the previous face angle for
each 5-7 yards of slice to be corrected.
SwingWeight
At
least a 3-point decrease if previous clubs are above
D4 (based on men's traditional length). It is also
possible for a slice to come from a swingweight that is
way too low for the golfer, in which case the
swingweight should be increased by at least 3-5 points.
Shaft
weight/total weight
If
previous clubs are very light in total weight, try
increasing swingweight at least 3-5 points before
increasing total weight. If swingweight is already at
normal to high level, increase shaft weight by at least
30-40g. It is also possible for the slice to come from a
club in which the total weight is too high.
Horizontal
bulge
Less
bulge (flatter face) if the golfer hits the ball off the
toe of the woods regularly and the current woods have
excessive bulge (inches of radius less than 8 inches).
Length
Shorten
by at least 1 inch
Shaft
flex
More
flexible shaft. Choose shaft with RSSR as much
as 20mph below and never higher than the golfer's
swing speed.
Lie
Lie
should be fit in one of the two dynamic fitting
methods to be correct for the golfer. In some cases, the
lie could be made at least 2-3 degrees more upright than
proper for the golfer in the woods to help correct a
slice.
Grip
size
Grip
size should be comfortable for the golfer
regardless of the distance from fingertips to the heel of
the hand.
Clubhead
design
Weight
Distribution
More heel weighting in the woods and perimeter
weighting overall.
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6.
I want to stop hooking the ball
Face
angle
1
degree more open than the previous face angle for
each 5-7 yards of hook to be corrected.
SwingWeight
At
least a 3-5 point increase if previous clubs are below
C8 (based on men's traditional length).
Shaft
weight/total weight
If
previous clubs are very light in total weight, try
increasing swingweight at least 3-5 points before
increasing total weight. If swingweight is already at
normal to high level, increase shaft weight by at least
30 - 40g.
Shaft
flex
Slightly
stiffer shaft but not enough to cause a loss in
distance. Choose shaft with RSSR that is no more than
10mph above the golfer's swing speed.
Horizontal
bulge
More
bulge radius (rounder face) by at least 4 inches if
the golfer hits the ball off the toe of the woods
regularly and the current woods have too little bulge.
(See Bulge Standard Specification Ranges for each
wood head at foot of page.)
Lie
Lie
should be fit in one of two dynamic fitting methods
to be correct for the golfer. In some cases, the lie could
be at least 2-3 degrees more flat than proper for the
golfer in the woods to help correct a hook. However, it
is not usually as effective to help a someone who
hooks with a flatter lie as it is to help a slicer with a
more upright lie because of the manner the club
appears in the address position. A wood head that sits
on the toe end of the sole (more flat than what player
needs) is perceived by most players as being too
awkward to swing comfortably.
Grip
size
Grip
size should be comfortable for the golfer
regardless of distance from the fingertips to the heel of
the hand.
Clubhead
design
Weight
Distribution
More toe weighting in the woods although the result is
not nearly as effective as heel weighting is for
correcting a slice. More perimeter weighting overall.
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7.
I want to stop pushing the ball
Face
angle
1
degree more closed than the previous face angle for
each 5-7 yards of push to be corrected.
Lie (particularly in the middle and short irons)
Lie should be fit in one of two dynamic fitting methods
to be correct for the golfer.
SwingWeight
At
least a 2-point decrease if swingweight of previous
clubs is believed too high for the strength of the player.
Shaft
weight/total weight
If
previous clubs are believed too heavy in total weight
for the player, decrease shaft weight by at least 30-40g.
Lie
Lie should be fit in one of two dynamic fitting methods
to be correct for the golfer. If the golfer pushes the ball,
look to make the clubs more upright, especially in the
middle and short irons where greater loft magnifies the
push problem for each degree the clubs are too flat for
the player.
Grip
size
Grip
size should be comfortable for the golfer
regardless of the distance from the fingertips to the
heel of the hand.
Shaft
flex
More
flexible. Choose shaft with RSSR equal to, but no
more than 20mph lower than the golfer's swing speed.
Horizontal
bulge
Less
bulge (flatter face) if the golfer hits the ball off the
toe of the woods regularly and the current woods have
excessive bulge (inches of radius less than 8 inches).
Clubhead
design
Weight
distribution
More heel weighting in the woods. More perimeter
weighting overall.
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8.
I want to stop pulling the ball
Face
angle
1
degree more open than the previous face angle for
each 5-7 yards of pull to be corrected.
Lie
Lie
should be fit in one of two dynamic fitting methods
to be correct for the golfer. If the golfer pulls the ball,
look to make the clubs more flat than what they are,
especially in the middle and short irons, where the
greater loft magnifies the pull problem for each degree
the clubs are too upright for the player.
SwingWeight
At
least a 3-5 point increase if swingweight of previous
clubs is believed too low for the strength of the player
(3 for steel, 5 for graphite).
Shaft
weight/total weight
If
previous clubs are believed too light in total weight
for the player, try to increase the swingweight by at
least 3-5 points. If swingweight is already at normal to
high range, increase shaft weight by at least 30-40g.
Grip
size
Grip
size should be comfortable for the golfer
regardless of the distance from fingertips to heel of the
hand.
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9.
I want to stop topping the ball
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3-5 points if the problem clubs are
C8 or less for men (based on men's traditional length).
Shaft
weight/total weight
Usually,
increase by at least 30g. If the player wants a
lighter total weight for potential distance increase, raise
the swingweight by at least 3-5 points.
Grip
size
Grip
size should be comfortable for the golfer
regardless of the distance from the fingertips to heel of
the hand.
Length
Increase
length by at least 1 inch in the woods and at
least 1/2 inch in the irons.
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10.
I want to stop skying the ball
Clubhead
design
Deeper
face height driver.
Length
At
least l inch shorter length
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3 points if swingweight is felt to be
too light for the player.
Shaft
weight/total weight
Increase
shaft weight/total weight only after trying to
increase the swingweight with the lighter total weight.
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11.
I want to stop hitting the ball thin
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3 points if swingweight is believed
too light for the player.
Shaft
weight/total weight
Increase
shaft weight/total weight only after trying to
increase the swingweight with the lighter total weight.
Vertical
roll
Decrease
radius (to be more flat) by at least 4 inches so
bottom of face has more loft.
Length
Increase
by 1" in the woods and 1/2 inch in the irons
only if the player is very crouched over the ball in the
address position.
Hosel
offset
Increase
the offset in the irons by at least 4-5mm and
the woods by at least 20mm (changing from a
traditional face progression to an offset hosel)
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12.
I want to stop hitting the ball fat
Length
Decrease
the length of the woods by 1/2 to 1 inch but
not shorter than traditional standard. Decrease the
length of the irons by 1/2 inch, but not shorter than
traditional standard.
SwingWeight
Increase
the swingweight by at least 3 points and do
not let the swing weight fall below DO.
Shaft
weight/total weight
Increase
shaft weight/total weight only after trying to
increase swing weight with a lighter total weight.
Sole
angle of the irons
Choose
a square to 3-4 degree bounce sole angle on
the #1-9 irons. Increase to a 6-7 degree bounce sole on
the PW. Never allow a scoop (negative) sole angle to
be present on any of the irons.
Hosel
offset
Decrease
the offset on the irons by 4-5mm and 20mm
on the woods (changing from an offset hosel to a
traditional face progression wood head model).
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13.
I want to hit the ball more solidly (on-center more of the time)
Length
Decrease
length of the woods at least 1 inch. Decrease
the length of the iron by 1/2 to 1 inch.
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3 points and do not allow to fall
lower than DO (based on men's traditional standard
length).
Shaft
weight/total weight
Match
to tempo of player starting with lower total
weight but with normal to slightly higher than normal
swingweight. If this fails, increase the total weight
without allowing the swingweight to fall below normal
levels.
Grip
size
Increase
to make the grip feel more comfortable and
disregard the fingertip to heel of hand distance as a
sizing factor.
Clubhead
design
Match
the clubhead size to the desire of the player. In
many cases a larger head shape can help by increasing
confidence.
When
contact is on-center but does not feel solid
Shaft
flex
More
flexible shaft. Choose shaft with RSSR that is
equal to, or lower than the actual swing speed of the
player by 10mph.
Shaft
bend point
Choose
a shaft with a lower bend point.
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3 points and do not allow to fall
lower than DO (based on men's traditional standard
length).
Shaft
weight and total weight
Match
to tempo of player starting with lower total
weight but with normal to slightly higher than normal
swingweight. If this fails, increase the total weight
without letting the swingweight fall below normal
levels.
Clubhead
design
Center
of gravity
Make sure clubhead design of choice has the CG
located in the center of the face scoring area. Make
sure the CG is not too high.
(see CG Estimating Chart at foot of page)
Loft
Increase
loft by at least 2 degrees but only if the
golfer's need for more solid feel outweighs the
possible distance loss.
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14.
I want better clubhead feel & 15.
I want to feel more kick
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3 points and do not allow to fall
lower than DO (based on men's traditional standard
length).
Shaft
flex
More
flexible shaft. Choose shaft with RSSR that is at
least 10-15 mph lower than the actual swing speed of
the player.
Shaft
bend point
Choose
shaft with lower bend point.
Length
Increase
length of woods by at least 1 inch and irons
by at least 1/2 to 1 inch, only if the player can hit the
ball on-center a high percentage of the time with the
longer lengths.
Grip
weight
Decrease
the grip weight by at least 10-12g.
Golf
club balance point
Assemble
the clubs to a lower balance point by using a
higher swing weight, lighter grip, lighter shaft or longer
length.
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16.
I want to Feel the clubhead more at the top of the backswing
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3 points and do not allow to fall
lower than DO (based on men's traditional standard
length).
Shaft
flex
More
flexible shaft. Choose shaft with RSSR that is at
least 10-15 mph lower than the actual swing speed of
the player.
Shaft
weight/total weight
Decrease
shaft weight and total weight by at least
30-40g and build with a "head-heavy" feel, achieved by
using a swingweight that is at least D3 - D4 based on
men's traditional standard length.
Grip
weight
Decrease
the grip weight by at least 10-12g.
Golf
club balance point
Assemble
the clubs to a lower balance point by using a
higher swing weight, lighter grip, lighter shaft or longer
length.
Length
Increase
length of woods by at least 1 inch and the
irons by at least 1/2 to 1 inch, only if the player can hit
the ball on-center a high percentage of the time with
the longer lengths.
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17.
I want to hit my chip and pitch shots less fat
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3 points or try to increase the
swingweight of the PW to at least 2 points higher than
the Nos. 1- through 9-irons.
Total
weight/shaft weight
Lower
the total weight at the same time the
swingweight is increased to try and feel the clubhead
more noticeably.
Grip
size
Increase
in size or at least increase to make the grip feel
more comfortable and disregard the fingertip to heel of
hand distance as a sizing factor.
Grip
weight
Decrease
the grip weight by at least 10-12g.
Golf
club balance point
Assemble
the PW to have a lower balance point by
using a higher swingweight, lighter grip, lighter shaft or
longer length.
Sole
angle
Use
a slight to moderate bounce sole angle from 4-7
degrees in the PW and never allow a scoop (negative)
sole angle.
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18.
I want to hit my chip and pitch shots less thin
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 3 points or try to increase the
swingweight of the PW to be at least 2 points higher
than the Nos. 1- through 3-irons.
Total
weight/shaft weight
Lower
the total weight at the same time the
swingweight is increased to feel the clubhead more
noticeable.
Grip
size
Disregard
the fingertip to heel of hand distance as a
sizing factor and increase the grip size to make it feel
more comfortable.
Grip
weight
Decrease
the grip weight by at least 10-12g.
Golf
club balance point
Assemble
the PW to have a lower balance point by
using a higher swingweight, lighter grip, lighter shaft or
longer length.
Sole
angle
Use
a slight to moderate bounce sole angle from 4-7
degrees in the PW and never allow a scoop (negative)
sole angle or an excessive bounce sole angle on the
PW of more than 7 degrees
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19.
I want to hit my sand shots less fat
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 6 points or try to increase the
swingweight of the SW to be at least 6-7 points higher
than the Nos. 1- through 9-irons.
Total
weight/shaft weight
Lower
the total weight at the same time the
swingweight is increased to make the clubhead more
noticeable.
Grip
size
Disregard
the fingertip to heel of hand distance as a
sizing factor and increase the grip size to make it feel
more comfortable.
Grip
weight
Decrease
the grip weight by at least 10-12g.
Golf
club balance point
Assemble
the SW to have a lower balance point by
using a higher swingweight, lighter grip, lighter shaft or
longer length.
Sole
angle/sole radius
Use
a moderate bounce sole angle from 12-15' in the
SW and never allow a scoop (negative) sole angle. Use
a wider sole (3/4 to 1 inch or more) with more
front-to-back radius.
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20.
I want to hit my sand shots less thin
SwingWeight
Increase
by at least 6 points or try to increase the
swingweight of the SW to be at least 6-7 points higher
than the Nos. 1- through 9-irons.
Total
weight/shaft weight
Lower
the total weight at the same time the
swingweight is increased to make the clubhead more
noticeable.
Grip
size
Disregard
the fingertip to heel of hand distance as a
sizing factor and increase the grip size to make it feel
more comfortable.
Grip
weight
Decrease
the grip weight by at least 10-12g.
Golf
club balance point
Assemble
the SW to have a lower balance point by
using a higher swingweight, lighter grip, lighter shaft or
longer length.
Sole
angle/sole radius
Use
a bounce sole angle from 8-12 degrees in the SW
and never allow an excessive bounce sole angle of
greater than 15 degrees. Use a more narrow sole (less
than 3./4 inch) with less front-to-back radius.
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21.
I want a better hold on the club
Grip
size/type
Disregard
the fingertip to heel of hand distance as a
sizing factor and increase the grip size to make it feel
more comfortable. Choose a grip with a tackier texture
or one made from a softer molding compound.
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